CA Sections Q & R + OR Sections A, B, C, D, & E
As usual, I caused our group to hike out of town later than expected. Our plan was to complete the 10 mile stretch back to the end of the fire closure before dark but the side trail we’d planned to take turned out to be unmaintained and extraordinarily steep. After a few hours of bushwhacking by headlamp we finally made it, although the sunset views on the way up made up for a lot of the hardship. The next two days in the Marble Mountain Wilderness were among the most serene on trail. The wildflowers in particular were gorgeous and the rolling hills reminiscent of a Monet painting. The colors ranged spectacularly but were a dulled matte that blended into the landscape, emoting the simplicity and stillness of a time since lost.
Even 3 weeks after our initial viewing, Mt. Shasta remained quite prominent in the background of our vistas. We’ve walked about 270 degrees around it and I must say its been even grander than I imagined. Without a doubt it has been my favorite mountain and will be difficult to eclipse.
California’s final challenge was the Seiad Valley, which we completed as a rim to rim hike in a single day, staying out of the sun at a trail angel’s home near the lowest elevation where the heat peaked at 107. The town of roughly 300 are staunch separatists intent on forming the State of Jefferson, which would unify Northern California, Southern Oregon, and Northwestern Nevada into a 51st state. They were more than happy to tell us all about their plan and the reasoning behind it as we passed through.
The next two days were a lot of the same heat wave, but over time we’ve adjusted to exertion in temperatures that would have once kept us in the shade the bulk of the day and we made it to the state border on schedule. After 100 days of hiking in California, I’d finally entered my second state!
After crossing over we could sense a changing landscape. The forests were suddenly dense with evergreens and the terrain noticeably flattened. After a couple days hike we met up with Dylan’s good family friend “Crazy John” who drove 1,300 miles from New Mexico to visit. We had an amazing time getting to know him and enjoyed a restful day at a reservoir near Ashland, our first full day off in nearly a month. John brought us steaks from a cow he raised for dinner and sang a mashup of his favorite songs while playing his guitar around the campfire.
Now in Oregon we’ve benefited from some of the best “Dark Sky” zones in the U.S. during the annual Perseids meteor shower. On the first night I counted 16 shooting stars, some spanning the entire horizon, and the following nights were just as spectacular watching meteors cut through the atmosphere. The following, Mo witnessed an extraordinary meteor shower that spanned the entire night’s sky where offshoots of orange and red comets glowing sporadically.
We said goodbye to John and hiked two more days to Fish Lake where we were met by our friend Ari who got off trail in Truckee but came up to drive us to PCT Trail Days in Cascade Locks, OR along the Columbia River. The towns along the river are beautiful, hip, and waiting to be discovered. A highlight was the bouldering gym built into a 19th century church, complete with all its original stained glass. Once at the festival, we pitched our tents among the 400+ on Thunder Island, practically at the base of the Bridge of the Gods which we’ll pass over when we cross into Washington.
The festival was a fun two day event filled with hikers we haven’t seen in months and lots of repair & replacement options for our failing gear (having a slow water filter and both a mattress and water bladder with holes doesn’t make for easy backpacking). The highlight of the weekend was Saturday night’s dance party featuring a DJ from Portland who was mixing vinyl records live as the sun set and the horizon turned an emerald green.
Once back on trail we were determined to take advantage of the flatter terrain and make up for lost time. Much anticipated was a day spent at Crater Lake National Park given COVID cancelled my planned trip here in 2020. I learned so much while there, including that its not a crater at all, but rather a caldera, with the eruption of Mt. Mazama 7,700 years ago causing the volcano to collapse in on itself. Snowfall & melt quickly collected to create the deepest lake in the United States. After walking along the lake’s rim, were able to hike down to the water for a dip, made particularly special given the water will be closed for restoration for 3 years after this season.
The next day was our longest yet, as we took on the 24 hour challenge which I’ve elaborated on below. The days following were brutal as we recovered both physically and mentally while maintaining a high mileage. The surrounding area was both beautiful and punishing as we came upon the Three Sisters volcanoes, the 3rd, 4th, and 5th largest peaks in Oregon. The rock formations have been unlike any geological formations I’ve seen before. In addition to all the volcanic rock, we’ve passed through multiple obsidian fields (which is actually volcanic glass), highlighted by Obsidian Falls.
The final two days into town were rough but stunning. First, a recent fire blazed so hot it eradicated any signs of life for miles. It felt like we were walking on a different planet, with temperatures hitting the 90s at the peak of the day and no water in sight. Just as we rejoined the forest, it was gone again as a desolate stretch of basalt flow allowed for no vegetation. It was punishing on our feet, particularly with shoes that already had 900 miles on them and it took a full day to really recover.
As we neared Bend we were joined by Dylan’s father, Mark, and his girlfriend, Deb, who are on one of their many long regional trips in their camper van. They set up camp with us right off the trail, cooked us brats, and treated us to an acoustic guitar + percussion duet. The next morning we left camp for a short hike that included the 2,000 mile marker which we celebrated by running around town trying to do all of our chores within the day. There’s no time for rest with the winter looming in Washington! Even so, we had to hit one of the main tourist attractions here, the last operating Blockbuster, which was just as nostalgic as you would imagine.
Suddenly were 2/3 of the way through Oregon and have less than a month left on the trail… if everything goes according to plan. I’m glad to say Mo, Dylan, and I are all happy, mostly healthy, and still so blessed to be pushing each other every day.
By the Numbers
The 24 Hour Challenge
Just as we crossed into Oregon I caught up with my friend Josh. In the middle of our conversation he asked me if we’d hiked 40 miles in a day yet and I sadly had to tell him our peak was only 36 at that point. While still very complimentary, I could sense the disappointment in his voice.
After ruminating on this for days, my interest was piqued when I heard about Oregon’s 24 hour challenge. Seeing it as the perfect opportunity to prove to Josh that I in fact do not dine at Weenie Hut Jr, I opted in mid-way through the morning out of Crater Lake. We made sure to capture some footage along the way.
Hiker Profile
Margot “Soap” Diehl and Bella “Crow” Diehl, 27, are cousins originally from Ventura, CA and Tacoma, WA respectively but they’ve been living in Santa Barbara and Boston for the last few years. Margot is a registered nurse where most of her time has been spent in the ICU, whereas Bella has dedicated her early career to working with children as both an elementary school teacher and au pair. Sensing they were reaching a point in their lives where the opportunity for adventure would soon be behind them, they decided to quit their jobs and hike the PCT together. Although, the seeds of inspiration for the trip had been planted long before, dating back to nights spent sleeping under the stars on top of Bella’s trampoline at age 10. They both admit that they are the only person the other could ever think about going on this adventure with.
We all started on the same day but I met the two of them on night two. I showed up to camp late (an hour until sunset was late in those days) and found that they were already occupying two of the three available tent sites. Not really understanding the norms and customs of the trail at that point, I felt bad setting up my tent in an area where others were already camped. My anxiety was seemingly affirmed when they gave me a less than warm reception, not acknowledging me the whole night. I really couldn’t tell what the dynamic was between the two of them at first. Each in their tent, cooking dinner and not speaking to one another. Were they strangers? Friends? Quarreling lovers? It wasn’t until the next day that we woke up and started chatting. They seemed kind and we crossed paths over the coming days until Warner Springs when we really hit it off and started hiking together along with Just Fred, who you may remember from Chapter 2.
Unfortunately Margot hurt her knee a few days later and went off trail for a week, causing Bella to join a group that charged ahead and we lost each other. But the three of us never lost contact, always relishing in those early days spent goofing around and having fun in the desert. So as time went on, we became town friends, meeting up in Idyllwild, Tehachapi, South Lake Tahoe, and at PCT days. We were even able to hike out together a little way in SLT, running into Margot’s mom “Momma Sue” hiking southbound with her friends. Sadly, our reunion was short lived as we lost each other again in the chaos of the Desolation Wilderness.
What I really love about these two is how much fun they’re having on this trip. They’re serious hikers, don’t get me wrong, but they don’t take it seriously at all. They’ve turned men’s pajama boxers into matching outfits and they’ve got the best bag swag I’ve seen (RIP to Margot’s mini disco ball). When stuck with a resupply store in the Sierra that had run out of food, they turned it into an opportunity and invented the “Honey Bun Challenge,” where they hiked while eating nothing but honey buns for the next two days into Mammoth.
At this point in the hike, a lot of those that remain look despondent. Hikers are physically and mentally exhausted, often lying down alone on their phones. But not these two. I feel so extraordinarily lucky to be surrounded by amazing people like Margot and Bella who are living this experience to the fullest no matter what it throws at them. I look forward to keeping our adventures going for years to come.
What I’m Listening To (part 2)
Reranking Rolling Stone’s Greatest Albums of All Time
A few months ago I was looking for some new music to incorporate and decided to look back at the classics for inspiration. I started with the top 10 albums of all time and then went to the top 25 when I realized I would have ranked some things differently.
So I’ve decided to make my own top 10 (from the pool of 25 Rolling Stone provided) realizing that I have my own criteria for what makes an album great. I was looking for artistic vision, an artist utilizing a number of different compositional styles, a flow that just keeps you coming back, and at least one smash hit single. I listened to each album at least 5 times through but some quite a bit more. So below is my list, with the album’s initial ranking in parenthesis.
Pet Sounds by The Beach Boys (#2) - Wonderfully fun and surprisingly emotional in parts the album goes so much deeper than the summer hit Wouldn’t it Be Nice. I was pleasantly surprised by the diverse set of instruments but I felt like it lacked some of the deeper meaning others on this list possess and was over ranked at #2.
Nevermind by Nirvana (#6) - Nirvana showed great range from their typical rock & roll sandwiched between acoustic singer songwriter ballads like Polly and Something in the Way to heavy metal with Endless, Nameless. The importance this album had on the grunge movement of the 90s combined with the emotion you sense that led to Kurt Cobain’s eventual death make it all the more powerful.
Rumours by Fleetwood Mac (#7) - The only album on this list I was listening to before this project, I was glad to dive back in again and again. The chemistry of lead vocalists Stevie Nicks, Lindsey Buckingham, and Christine McVie blend perfectly whether collaborating on something edgy and energetic or soulful and subdued.
I Never Loved a Man the Way I Love You by Aretha Franklin (#13) - I’m ashamed to say I had never listed to this album in full beforehand as it has so much more to offer than just its popular single Respect. This album should be in the top ten based on the fact that Franklin has arguably the most beautiful voice to ever grace the radio waves.
London Calling by The Clash (#16) - The album listens like a major rebellion and upon learning more, that seemed to be the state of the band (and the city of London) when it was recorded. Rare on this list as it just pumps out rock & roll throughout, it does so with an intentional messaging that shines through each track.
To Pimp a Butterfly by Kendrick Lamar (#19) - Coming out just a year before my Kendrick fandom began in college I was generally unfamiliar with its contents. I consider his following work, DAMN, to be the greatest rap album of all time and I think from the perspective of creating a commercially successful work it probably is (it was the first non-classical, non-jazz album to win the Pulitzer Prize for Music). To Pimp a Butterfly is jarringly poetic as Lamar‘s upbringing in Compton is a central theme, stating those around them felt their options were to become an athlete or a gangster. Each interlude between songs unveils a slightly longer version of a poem that we come to find out is being read to the late Tupac Shakur. The final song, lasting 11 minutes, is composed of a simulated interview using a recording of Shakur from 1994 covering what will come of black America if changes aren’t made. The subject matter and artistry go so far beyond the songs themselves and we gain so much from listening to the album in its entirety, exactly what I was looking for in this exercise.
Thriller by Michael Jackson (#12) - Already a bona fide star since his youth, Michael Jackson just produces albums that excite all that listen. This album includes his entire spectrum of work from the upbeat ballads reminiscent of his fist solo album Off the Wall, to the eerie namesake title Thriller that still operates as the theme song of one of our most popular holidays.
The Miseducation of Lauryn Hill by Ms. Lauryn Hill (#10) - This album really surprised me and has been played on repeat since my first run through. It probably takes the cake on incorporating a singular theme that is elaborated on throughout the album, in this case love. The interludes emanate from a North Jersey classroom similar to where Hill grew up. Symbolically, at the beginning when taking roll call, Lauryn Hill is absent, suggesting that she missed this lesson as a child and contributed to her own miseducation on love as an adult. Possessing no less than three well-known, independently successful singles, it also has a litany of other great songs in varying styles. Hill switches from rap to soul the hip-hop to funk often within the same track creating a true work of art.
What’s Going On by Marvin Gaye (#1) - Marvin Gaye put together a masterpiece from beginning to end. He both keeps the theme of social unrest and limited upward mobility for minorities present throughout, but presents them in a way that aren’t suffocating or feel like a lecture, but instead are being meant to feel the struggle. The album boasted a lot of what I was looking for with narrative, well-known singles, a variety of styles & instruments, and overall the vibe you could listen to on repeat without feeling oversaturated. It also goes without saying that the importance of his message endures to this day.
Abbey Road by the Beatles (#5) - The most iconic album from the most iconic band of all time. The album takes you on a ride from the start. The first three songs go from jovial and upbeat, to psychedelic, to calm and reflective, showing range at a time when range wasn’t really something that most musicians were capable of. To break a tie with the albums above I relied on a definition of greatness that goes beyond the subjective qualities in which we perceive art, but also the objective measures of commercial success and it’s ability to impact lives and human history. There’s no question that the Beatles did just that. They changed the trajectory of music and as a result, despite any personal preferences, I have to say Abbey Road is the greatest album of all time.
(No) Shower Thoughts
The Power of Ritual and Repetition
The backcountry is the 180° opposite of the urban environments I’ve always called home. Living in such stark contrast has shed light on how repetition and ritual impact our day-to-day. In many respects, there is nothing more repetitive than the life I currently live. I wake up every day with the same small set of possessions. I remove every item from my bag and repack it in the same way, I eat more or less the same food, and spend most of my waking hours walking.
This strict repetition has reinforced that speed does not equate to efficiency. Speed is a key input, but we often forget about quality when thinking about that trade-off. Fast fashion, overnight shipping, and current tastes often blind us to the long-term impacts of our decisions. Ironically, I’ve actually started to take longer to break down camp as the trip has gone on. What I used to do in 40 minutes has extended to an hour because if I take the time to do things thoroughly and prepare both mentally and physically I save time later on.
So repetition can be a powerful tool for refinement but at a certain point, you reach an inflection where the repetitiveness of what you’re doing can begin to control you unconsciously. I imagine a lot of this is actually rooted in the repetition of our professional lives. We go to the same place and do similar things within the same timeframe and that bleeds beyond the workplace. We come home and watch TV one night and then it becomes a habit. It’s a slippery slope, making it so easy to start what are often damaging routines using a standardized structure.
As I look back on my own life I can see it everywhere: diet, drinking, physical inactivity, workplace, and social circle just to name a few. When we are so constantly in the same flow, it’s nearly impossible to take a step back and evaluate what benefits you’re getting and what you’re not. There’s a point at which it’s important to break things to unveil who is truly in control. Hopefully we find that we actually do benefit from the way we live and the routines we establish but seeing the other side of the coin is the only way to find out.
Nowhere is this more poignant than the cell phone. For most, it’s the first thing we touch when we wake up in the morning and the last thing we look at before we go to bed. I mean, when was the last time you went to the bathroom without looking at your phone for at least a few seconds? It’s a this immediate reaction we’ve completely lost power to. They’re no longer cellphones, the phone feature accounting for maybe 2% of its usage, but really personal dissociation devices that fill the cracks of free time left within our routines. And yet, they’re among our most powerful tools, whether it be for communication, capturing moments, or educating ourselves. As much as I hate it, my PDD is central to the way I live my life.
One place unpacking ritual has been pivotal was in my unexpected decision to make this a sober journey. Save for four doses of ibuprofen and a lifetime of refined sugars, I’ve tried to cut out all vices from my life. Caffeine was easy as I haven’t really been drinking much since college but alcohol of course was the most obvious. The biggest realization to come of it was how much of my relationship with alcohol is conditioned. The bonding element, the social lubricant, the escape it can create. In New York, the expectation was that pretty much every first date would involve alcohol and realistically at least the first two or three. But not only is nonalcoholic beer better than I would’ve expected, it’s also a great replacement for the social ritual that is often what makes drinking so enjoyable. It’s about sitting outside at a brewery with friends around the fire pit with live music or sitting at a bar watching a sporting event, chatting up the strangers next to you, or relaxing at a beautiful lake. I’ve experienced all three where normally I would’ve been drinking (and more than just a beer or two). And yet through Athletic Brewing, kombucha, ginger beer, and just good old fashioned water as substitutes I found that I don’t miss drinking as much as I thought and most importantly it hasn’t kept me from having those same experiences. When choosing to abstain I seemingly took the power back that it once possessed over me. It’s not to say that I will be staying sober permanently, but this respite has put my relationship with alcohol into perspective and decoupled the social and ritualistic elements of drinking with the actual enjoyment itself.
So as I think about ways to extend my learnings into my future life, I know that I don’t want to allow myself to settle into any routine without testing the validity of my preconceptions with regularity. That any form of conditioned repetition is powerful and that I can both use that power to establish and carry forward habits I want while being careful not to allow bad ones to entrench themselves. And most of all, to challenge myself to really know where I derive happiness and joy, maintaining autonomy over my choices and ultimately my life writ large. l know it won’t always be easy and that sometimes we need to give in to enjoy life or just let ourselves catch up, but I also know that I’m blessed to be surrounded by real supporters who will be there no matter what.
Much love always,
Connor
Useful Links
As always my favorite summer read.
I now know for certain you dine at the Salty Spittoon and not Weenie Hut Jrs. Incredible reading as always my friend.